Friday, March 11, 2005

Spring means ...

At Earthy Delights, early spring means a whole lot more than a
change in seasons and the welcome relief of warm sunny days to
come. Here, where we set the clock by the schedule of wild
mushrooms and delectable tidbits from the moist earth, March means
the beginning of the annual Wild Harvest. This is our biggest
event, our busiest time, and our greatest specialty.

Our newer subscribers may wonder what the fuss is all about. What
is the Wild Harvest? Every year at just about this time, I do a
"Wild Harvest 101"to explain what's going on to uninitiated
gourmands all over the country.

There are three basic ingredients involved in our Annual Wild
Harvest, and yes, they really are all wild. The first product is
the wild ramps, which usually start coming in toward the end of
March, depending on the weather. The second product is the Queen
of the Forest, a.k.a., the Morel Mushroom. Finally, the fiddlehead
ferns emerge sometime in April or May, depending on the weather.
Here's a brief discussion of these three culinary treats:

Wild Ramps:

They look a bit like a scallion, but with a flatter
leaf that's tinged with purple. They have a strong, pungent flavor
- sometimes described as an "attitude" - that falls somewhere
between an onion and garlic with just a touch of cabbage thrown
in. Also known as "wild leeks," ramps started becoming very
popular with executive chefs around ten years ago. Before then
they were popular mainly among mountain dwelling folks in the
Appalachians. In fact, ramps are so popular among the hill folks
that they're celebrated with festivals, music, cook-offs, and even
poetry readings in North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, and
Tennessee. They can be used in nearly any recipe as a substitute
for onions, but are especially delicious when served the way the
hill folks like 'em. Fry them in butter and serve them with
cornbread, beans, and bacon. Some prefer ham or a good old-
fashioned beef stew. they're also excellent when served raw in
salads, or in soups and soufflés. This is an unusual, esoteric
wild vegetable that lends itself just as well to an extraordinary
gourmet dinner as it does to burgers and a shake.

Morel Mushrooms:

The morel is the reigning queen of wild
mushrooms. It's a nuisance to try to find, and inconsistently
appears in different spots from year to year. In general, most
people think that they're way more than worth all of the trouble
that goes into trying to find them. The cap is mottled like a
sponge, and in fact it is sometimes known as the "sponge
mushroom." It has an elusive, woodsy flavor with a distinctly wild
edge to it, and it must be completely cooked before serving.
Morels can also be dried and reconstituted by soaking in warm
water. They will impart their flavor to water they're soaked in.
Morels are at their best when sautéed in butter with a touch of
garlic, maybe a bit of onion, and possibly even a dash of sherry.
Some people dredge them first in flour. Some dip them in beaten
egg, then dredge them in flour. Some cringe at the thought of
going anywhere near them with flour. they're delicious in pasta,
wonderful with toast, bacon, and hot coffee for breakfast, and
excellent when used in an omelet. My very favorite? Make a blonde
roux from the rinsing water. Sauté the mushrooms with garlic and
onion, and toss the whole bunch with some good quality fettuccini.
Serve this gourmet treat with greens that have been tossed in
lemon juice and Argan oil, and a baguette of warm French bread.

Fiddlehead Ferns:

The best description I've ever heard for the
flavor of a fiddlehead is that they taste "green." It's true. They
have an intense, fresh flavor that bursts against your taste buds
with every bite. If prepared to their fullest advantage, they'll
have a slight crunch, and they pair wonderfully with red meat,
eggs, pasta, and cheese dishes. Fiddleheads really are ferns - but
they're ferns that are just emerging from the forest floor, so
that they're still coiled in the shape of a fiddlehead. They can
be steamed or sautéed and served with butter, salt, and pepper.
Like ramps, they're versatile. They can be used in salads, soups,
soufflés, and casseroles. I like them tossed with fettuccini,
shrimp, Parmesan cheese, and sautéed morel mushrooms.

By now, you probably get the point. Spring is the end of winter,
but it's also the beginning of a three- month long festival of
wild gourmet treats that are accessible to anyone who's daring
enough to try something just a tad off of the beaten path.

The rest is up to you.